The Debate: France’s changing eating habits

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The Debate: France’s changing eating habits
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The Debate: France’s changing eating habits
Hello and welcome to special year-end edition of the France 24 debate on puppy Gap. Our mission today to challenge each old assumptions about the French and their food. The days of the two hours Drake may be long gone, but this country is still associated with fine cuisine. Fresh produce a deep-seated table culture provided that you’re, neither poor North swamped for time. The myth was shattered once and for all. You might say two decades, an anti globalization activist Jose Buffet led the Smashing up of the McDonald’s in the southern town of Mio. I was back in 1999, he was denouncing what the French call that I met. Booth, bad eating, encouraged by over consumerism. The Open Secret was that the French love their McAdoo, as we call it here. Second, highest numbers of branches of McDonald’s can be in Europe can be found in France and the golden arches aren’t alone itself fast food culture, that’s taking over with the hamburger beating out the Jean boneboro Batman butter. Sandwiches. The national staple item of choice is France, losing its culinary cultural globalization is knocking on the door. Yellow vest movements that we’ve seen in this country over the past month has served as a starling reminder that, while the other half talks up organic farming and saving the planet majority of citizens, first one to make ends meet. Can you do it all find the time to eat right without breaking the bank today in the France 24 debate, we’re looking at France’s changing habits with, as he been a member of France’s top food and healthy safety Advisory Board? Sociologists could teach that author of selective eating the rise than eating and sense of personal dietary requirements, thanks for being with us community, supported agriculture Network, we’ll talk. What would you do in a moment thanks for joining us in the pharmaceutical industry of many moons ago, and then ones that you had your Epiphany moment? I should say first in eco, friendly hotels, you’re, the proud owner of human 100 % organic restaurant in paris’ 13th. At home, to small, that’s right, thanks for being with us, thank you from Boston Economist to Jason, Gorski, universities, questrom School of Business, and we each need to get your perspective J in a moment on that eating habits here, where you are and will everywhere. Thank you for joining us Facebook and Twitter hashtag f24 debate. Let’S begin with the back at the French President himself leading the charge to have the United Nations cultural organisation, UNESCO recognize our loaf of choice alongside Nepali Pizza, Turkish coffee, Belgian beer, Korean kimchi as part of humanities, intangible cultural heritage. I have to be soft, but not chewy very happy now we should point out cookie shell. This is part of a broader battle to defend handcrafted by guess. That’S the important distinction here against the industrial ones that you find in supermarkets and I hate to say that, because supermarkets, some chains have their own bakeries and actually, I seem to remember ages ago, at least 15 years ago. I remember one of them actually got the price for the best. If I get probably considerably you know, at the beginning of the 20th century, East French person ate on the average 900 grams a day of bread that was really the decor food and now we’re down to probably hunting 20 and it doesn’t serve it all. The same function, it wasn’t some that you had to have at any meal. That was a component of the meal that was as necessary as a fork and knife, and it’s not so anymore. I mean that suggests in addition to the meal sing. That is really part of the national app it’s, but it’s not absolutely necessary the way just to be interesting enough. It’S come the same way as wine in a wine has was something that had to be the table. It’S just ordinary table wine. There were no comments about the just have to be there if it had some, you serve the Florida elementary schools, watered-down version in my days at the cafeteria in high school, so the older students had, I think, I’d wine on the table as well as the teacher. Not anymore it what’s your religion when it comes to Bread and Wine and the changing perceptions UVC, are we losing something or are we just changing? I think it’s just changing. People eat less baguette bread than they used to that good or bad, but I think it’s good and not-so-good, which is not so good today. That’S why a lot of people are trying to get free gluten-free diary we react to. We are because it’s not too good. Nowadays, it’s like wine, don’t drink so much wine, the used to drink wine at every meal, but not today, especially at lunch time in the in the restaurant. Just a very few people for special occasions, drink wine, otherwise water offered uses their perception of what a baguette. So should be: is that something that consumers care less about them before or as mature, exchanging how it is prepared and where the weed come from, confirming what what is inside the weather eating? Actually, so I would say that people, a lot of people are more aware of and want to know more what they’re eating. So that’s why you were worried. That’S why he’s if I get disappearing, why should it when it’s well done and we know where the witch is coming from and what kind of weed it is because people are getting allergic to, because we have manipulated the wheat and the seeds. So that’s does the season of the same as 15 years 50 years ago. So that’s what you know. So people are becoming more aware and where I’ll be able to get a nice crusty baguette that might even taste better than the one of yesteryear. I am still not worried the next time I come to Paris and I will have a great meal with a great that get, but I will agree with your other guests that we seeing a large amount of gluten free, alternative pop up everywhere. Most recently, a new pizza restaurant open two blocks from my home, all gluten-free all gluten-free, and and and does it have customers in it, the top gluten-free cheese made of their customers. Wheat, pizza. Okay, your reaction to that cuz he’s now, I’m concerned that we’re going to disagree here, it’s true to say that so don’t care ssj just said. I think they care a lot and it’s not fair to say that bread is getting worse than it used to be. Actually, there was a down. That we’re coming out from a the reference for this is my American friend Steve Kaplan who’s Cornell, professor who’s, written all by himself, the story, the history of French, bread and fire French flower, and he showed that after really bad., Where, when Was that bad. Well from the fifties up to recently and the process is still going on, but I think this be durable improvements in the quality of the flowers used our summer. Besides, that’s a whole movement of the farmer WETA, including forgotten varieties that they are Reviving and they’re working very much very hard on the process of bread, making, etcetera and so on. So there is some some space for hope. On the other hand, the baker’s complained that consumers are increasingly coming up with strange requests like are asking if I get pothole treat not to not overcook to not to cooked, which sounds strange because, usually according to connoisseur, I’m sorry. If there is such a thing as the baggage should be crisp and and it shouldn’t be undercooked what what’s what’s served up at that human at your restaurant, we serve a baguette and and and complete bread even better, not supposed to be well, maybe, but the four Restaurant, so we can, we can. We can be pretty not to cook if you like it like this, it’s fun is fine, for us depends on the way you like it, and what about the price, because the whole wheat bread that you talk about by the way in regulated in France, the price Right now is a roof one Euro. What about the whole wheat? Bread? Because a human is at 100 % organic? We we buy organic bread and to buy get is 1.23 or even for a restaurant. So it doesn’t make a difference whether you you buy your tattoo directly to the bakery or you order it from the restaurant. It’S exactly the same price, something that we just have to get used to. If you want to eat better quality you’re going to have to pay more, it’s a it’s a very large debate, it’s a very, very big debate. So so they think. What are you personally think today cause we don’t have enough local and organic farmers and organic market? France is very little, of course, some of the organic product or more expensive. I need to scale it up so that we have more organic and then the price comes down, but in the system, even though I would say it may be more expensive, you can have alternative systems where you buy directly from the farmer and then you don’t have To pay the distribution cost, the? U don’t have you have you have only the cost of the producing, so that 2 cheaper, that there are ways to bring the price down for organic on things like bread supposed to be at this point still is at least slightly more expensive to the heart of The matter of which is how the French eat and again at the outside, they don’t all have the means to go to a three-star restaurant. Every night, The Economist magazine, it’s Big Mac index to wait consumer spending around the world. How about the ham sandwich index was for France commissioned this past spring for the Paris sandwich and snack convention yesterday took place in April, the overall price a stable in 2017, but the disparities of growing. According to the survey you see in certain towns that ham sandwich cost more Paris is, of course, the most expensive for four Euros. When you look at that map and then other more forlorn areas in the north and east of France, where it’s, where it’s cheaper, the price of eating just isn’t the same, whether you’re in Paris or else, France, Synthesia spensive, when people are coming from the country Countryside In the restaurant did you think that the prices is a much higher than that in the city of course, and headed back to organic food yeah it’s much more expensive. We have a cost of good at least 30 % higher than a normal restaurant. Just because we’re trying to get that I’ll get organic products, Jay sagorsky. What do you do to make organic to make better quality food, not overly expensive, but to go back one? The problems we have here in the United States is there. Many labels is organic. Does natural in this huge confusion among the American consumers or exactly what they’re buying and what they’re paying, because sometimes businesses label something natural, organic and you’re, not really sure what that means. Is that just slightly modified the old process? Or is it really going back to say family farm where everything is tended by hand and then non-production agricultural process? Don’T know here in the United States when you’re looking at something on the shelf or on the menu of a restaurant? What exactly am I getting? Is that changing even more confusion in the marketplace right now go when something was called organic or natural? You knew it was fair, probably fairly well done without pesticides, or things like that today. So many people have jumped into the marketplace with these labels. I’M not sure what I’m buying regulators and come in and stop people from false advertising. What you’re describing well, if you call it natural and you start using, say natural pesticides instead as much false advertising. The whole discussion – I’ll put it to you, so they I’m little young about how you make quality food affordable for everyone, not just for the upwardly-mobile of the inner cities. We having friends, we have 6 % of the total land agricultural land. That is organic 6 %. It’S almost nothing, so the aim was is to achieve 20 % in. I don’t know when really far from it. So how do we do that in Europe? There’S a very easy way if governments wanted to do it, it’s the cap, it’s the common.! If the new cap wants to really improve the number and the percentage of organic to subsidies for those who do organic farming and not for those who do industrial-scale for me, yes, so we need to think globally the whole politics about agriculture to improve that organic and Also why the French love their fast food so much we talk about it when we come back you’re watching the France 24 debate special edition, France 24 debate were looking at France’s changing eating habits and not just among the affluence, but among the whole of the population Were talking about it with former member of stop the health and food safety Advisory Board, the sociologist? Could she slap author of selective eating the rising meeting of sense of personal diet requirements? 100 % organic restaurant in the capital said 13th arrondissement. What are the specials this Monday, the menu at least twice a month ago today we have risotto, mushroom risotto, we have one one and one fish a day: 80 % of the year menuism is vegetarian, 80 %, and so the idea is to attract people who eat Meat today and to convert them slowly to another diet, soda culture Network which tries to encourage is you’ve been telling us in far one for there to be more organic. My people don’t know a lot of food. Actually so it’s a lot, but it’s not food that people eat locally, because people here wants vegetable and local, but we have a problem between what people want and what the government and the region are pushing for. So, that’s not that’s not the same at all University questrom School of Business at a bus in very far in Indy to be hearing this conversation we’re we’re talkin about what the European common agricultural policy subsidies should go towards. What the policy the government should have the Department of Agriculture in the United States doesn’t feel dabble in this sort of thing, or does it not very much turning people from meat eaters to vegetarians and natural food and organic? Is it far from what I think about everyday next, Michael Moore’s, part of Europe takes him to an elementary school in Normandy, where the US filmmaker Marvels at the meals that are carefully agreed to it ahead of time by school boards under the eyes of new christianus Ap Normandy, the meal of course, includes its famed, a Camembert, a cheese before we talk about fast, fast, food, Jason Gorski. What are School meals like in the you it states? After all, the culture of how.to.eat Begins for many in school, but in general, each individual school gets to decide what it decides is healthy or not healthy. For some schools, french fries are okay. Number of schools recently banned soft drinks in their schools, so we went through a smoking ban. Now we’re going through a soft drink ban a soft drink ban. Well, I mean a variety of situations, but I took a recently. I was given a tour of the New York school cafeteria system and there’s a bunch of chefs there 2 years ago, took a tour of France, cafeterias and say they were inspired by some of the things they saw and they were very proudly displaying showing off to. As salad bar actually, kids were using, probably, among other reasons because of the Aurora ethnic Origins to accept – I don’t know MidWest American so but anyway, that the system in France is a very elaborate. It’S may not be as ideal as shown in the number of the American Productions. Thank you, Michael Moore, but I do we have a study on ongoing study with cafeterias in the Paris area and we do have some places that have reasonably happy children so put into perspective. For us, the dirty little secret is that the French love fast food. Okay, maybe we should take things the other way around. One of the best markets is France and its they wear in France in as early as 1965 or so. But if you look at the way it works in Friendswood, fast food turns out that there are some local specificities, for instance, 80 % of fast food business. At least that brand that I shouldn’t have quoted is at mealtimes, which is total contrast, which agency in the US, where people show up show up at 10:30 in the morning order eating that burger in France and people order more items they eat more often on the Spot basically, the use the place more like a regular restaurant than than Americans too, and in general, the French have still active cultural style about their food that they have local picture of Yara taste. For instance, there is Francis the country where people eat. At the same time, at regular times more than where else in the world, oldest studies show that it’s still the same, but not as fast as you would expect, because the one according to insane National Statistical Institute, this 50 % of the population busy eating. So if people are eating at the same time, there’s a some likelihood that they are eating together, that’s another feature of the French that they take. The eating is really having a meal that is sitting down and having, ideally, a sequence of three courses. Press play. Of course, main course dessert that is going a little bit too down the drain there. Simplifying is everything, but basically the structure is still in people’s minds and it’s not on their tables for real we’ve heard closest Leo Play Down. Stereotypes about the French tells about stereotypes about the Americans when it comes to the American eating, with sitting down for a meal or not or more meals, on-the-go and we’re getting more and more meals in our cars and trucks in general was very big in the United States is fast food and eating fast food, while in the drive, unless you drive through you, pick up your order and you keep driving eat while you’re driving with one hand and eating with the other. I am particular actually suggested. People that won the drive-thru line is very long. You actually park your car walk inside and you’ll find the restaurant as empty to give it serve twice as fast, very funny that people won’t get out of their cars. Have this kids, those who have the least amount of money you go to the most often too fast food restaurants. You say: that’s not quite right in the United States, it’s pretty flat for middle class and Rich all eat fast food at least once a week and has a couple of examples of the very rich president. Right now is Donald Trump loves McDonald’s. He actually did a number McDonald commercials, but on the other side of the political Spectrum, Bill Clinton was famous for going out for a jog around the White House and stopping at McDonald’s for a quick snap. So we have some of the most powerful and influential people in the United States who love their fast food as well as the other end of the economic spectrum at a fast food restaurant, the lower-middle-class of the most likely to eat at a fast food restaurant. But in general the difference between them and say the rich is not very only a small small percentage of one meal each week and you imply that it’s more than how much you earned that matters. It’S how much time you have for lunch can seem very pressed for time, so we’re trying to do everything possible to squeeze and have his little time spent eating as possible, which is exactly against the French model of sitting down and enjoying the meal with others. Are people enjoying the meal as long as before in your restaurant shoot this year? Do you sense that everything faster than before? Well, the restaurant is located in a business area, so people don’t have much time how much more time in the evenings then for lunch time, 40 minutes average to eat and it’s not the 3 news. Yes, I am sorry, it’s so often just a starter on the main, the main near the main dish or dessert or just sometimes just a result of, I think it’s changing and people are very often in a hurry, and what about in the evening are they spending Less time in the restaurant before or is it the same they’re there? They still take the time and it’s still, but I cannot tell you if they take less time now than before, because the restaurant is open only for five years, but they take more time for dinner. Then for lunch, that’s for sure, we’ve, your your organization! Your network focuses, of course, on cost is also on the eating habits of the and the the cost or Consequence. The main focus is rated the quality and how cultural thing, because you can see fast food in a lot of countries and when people wants to feel like death, loft or even in some of them, love password so fast food is, is really for me. A separate debate in friends: we have another another Trend. That is the quality that people want as well. We were talking about the weed called if I get quality and also the organic demands that people have. So that’s really for me. The two sides of the public percent of the household budget that is devoted to food and it’s higher in France than in most developed countries like 15 %. But that’s just me call because the idea is the poorer you are out of the country and the more of your basic needs are representative of percent of u.s. budget. So what happens? Is that comparing with equal in developed countries, princess States, United States and France, United States divorce, something like 6 %? I mean there are some disagreements about the way to to a computer physically, let’s figure, why the French used to have 14 % And down maybe 2:11, or something like that, so they do use a larger party at lunchtime people in a hurry. They eat them in question. I don’t dispute that. I said the same. in the old days, but Within These 22 minutes they insist they want to have a meal. Maybe not a full meal of all restaurants in the Paris area of in the major cities of the country offer what they call lunch formula and a launch formula consists of first course main course or main course dessert or level 3 or increasingly now you have women. You might compare the confirm, that. like to have to first courses or first course in desert. France. Are you really reassured Francis still, France, Beretta still friends? I have a child who works on Wall Street and that they don’t even leave. The food is all ordered in early in the day, someone sensor on a slip of paper. You check off what you want for lunch, and it just shows up at your desk the idea that you could even go out for 22 minutes two-course meal unheard-of in Manhattan. To 22 minutes to be sounds like heresy for two courses, wine people in the United States are becoming less healthy because they’re switching more to alcohol. As a quick example of the United States government, the Commerce Department tracks what happens in. They called him drinking places. In the last 2 years we spent about 25 % more money in bars medicating. What is the reason you’re a better person than I, if you can answer that question right now with my own students, is that they won’t drink during the day? Have a glass of wine with lunch or in the United States, used to be the three Martini lunch? No more, but at night after work is done, feel free to drink as much as you can. Our discussion to stereotypes have have died in this country: meat, consumption down 12 % in the last decade to higher prices and concerns over the environment and other you see the statistics and it’s true as well for alcohol. If you believed the World Health Organization, it’s not just the hard stuff, the French drink nearly three times less wine than they did a half-century ago. I said they have z800 today. Is it good or bad news on a headstand found? I think it’s a good thing for them if you’re working in the wine industry – it’s probably not that good, but I would say on a house and personal level is probably good for you, because we don’t need wine to be healthy, so wine should be like something Exceptional, you know like fun. If you don’t, you don’t need it to be alive. So that’s why I would sit for me. It’S it’s more positive! I’M going to I’m going to have enemies thing that fits so so exception, not the rule. What are the views of your of the patrons of that comes to your to your restaurant? One industry is a bad thing, is balancing the quantity by better quality, so high prices, but also people drink, much more fruit, juices or vegetable juices mature faster than than than alcohol. Binge drinking that you see in places like UK and and elsewhere have come to friends. More than before is that is that just a perception, or is that true, is going down and forms of consumption, ways of consumption of consuming are changing and it’s. It is no doubt the younger Generations have different debits and they tend to be more similar to what you can observe in Britain or the us or other countries. 5 years ago, just five years ago, you had to look long and hard to find a restaurant that served vegetarian courses or vegan courses on the on the menu. Now it’s almost standard. What is that tell you about France and influence of globalization, or is it something more over? The history of France has always been directions to adopt. A vegetarian is man. When I last surveyed about 10-12 years ago, there was something about 3 % of people who, admittedly I mean declare they wear veggie Terrence. It was when, when rephrase the question in a different way, when we ask people, do you agree or disagree with the following statement? I tend to attend to avoid meat which could have been the description of flexitarian right. There were more people up to 8 %. The word accepting that to another words, because the meal is such an important insta social institution in French life. The meal is like a communion, so will, if you extract yourself from the communion you’re in trouble, it’s it’s uncomfortable and people we’re reluctant to declare that they were allergic or vegetarian or gluten-free, and this is what is changing currently because there’s a houses of individualization people Feel more autonomous about their food less dependant from other people, and they tend to be more assertive about that Prince’s, etcetera and this and that sense that I getting closer to the Anglo-Saxon World Summit. But the steel Woods the still a long, long way to go, because I hear the recent surveys show that the increase is not very rapid. The idea of yeah you’re hosting a dinner party and there’s one person who’s got allergies. Another person has vegan its come to France. Now, how much is it come to France? I cannot say that what I know it does. As you said, the consumption of meat has is. It is a bit less now and friends in other countries is growing, but in France it getting slightly it’s not that huge, maybe in Paris, in this, in the urban areas is decreasing more, but in the countryside less so we have to be balanced friends, definitely and As I was saying before, people are more aware of the environmental disaster that high consumption of meat is, and they don’t know what was in it. So there’s a trust issue that environmental issue and the health issue as well. What is coming first to the afternoons because you have to be educated as well when you are working and you have three jobs, it’s more difficult for you to. You know find time to understand what you’re eating and maybe change your hobby, because changing habits take time as well. It’S not like you don’t wake up in the morning until I want to change everything takes time so probably when you’re out front, and you have a bit more time, it’s easier for you, but it’s coming as well. Cuz, the schools are also offering vegetarian meals and we have a law that just been voted. That’S going to encourage vegetarian meals as well, so you know it’s not only a trend, it’s also coming from other other places. You mention of the environment, one of the hottest and dry Summers and decades the shape of things to come. Warn climate scientists particular nerve Arbol to Wine Vintners one decided to create the conditions of what the wine of 2050 will taste like. He broke the bad news to our own Molly Hall. It looks pretty, but the very different food we have usually motive till we come from the freshness and the and the agency to Jamie Cooks, overripe fruit. So what does the food of tomorrow? Look like cuz he’s now. You know … Awesome, new products that have appeared from Powder meals that supposedly offer everything you need to survive on a very year, a convene, Nintendo low cost basis and there’s a market for that. Maybe just hackers in California, not quite and at the same time does for instant in vitro meat is in the process of being developed and at the same time, when you have people that are more and more in in the afternoon classes. That are more and more aware of what good food is, and that I mean 3 Foodies have never be nicer as numerous as numerous as they are now, so you have all kinds of situations and forms of eating that I you know the founder of soylent Soylent Is the first brand of these are complete meals, for I used to call them feed human feed right now, then someone asked him just jump. Don’T you miss a good meat meal with friends at the restaurant once in awhile? He says I have nothing against recreationally. Take upon us yet plenty of dinner conversation still to come by food. I want to take you so much as well, J zagorski for joining us from Boston and thank you for being with us here for this special year-end edition of the France 24 debate.
Although the days of the two-hour lunch breaks might be over, France is still associated with fine cuisine, fresh produce and a deep-seated table culture – provided that you’re neither poor nor swamped for time. The “Yellow Vest” movement has served as a startling reminder that while parts of the population are talking up organic farming and saving the planet, the majority of French citizens are still struggling to make ends meet. Can you find the time to eat right without breaking the bank?

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